Found an old canner in grandma’s basement? Or maybe you just want to add a new weighted system to your existing canner so that you don’t have to babysit a gauge anymore? Old pressure canners sometimes used funky pressure adjustment and relief systems that no longer work or have parts available. Can you fix this with something new? Maybe . . .
Disclaimer: These modifications do not necessarily correspond to the Original Equipment Manufacturer’s specifications. Any modifications you make are your responsibility. While I’ve made the following modifications to my canners, I cannot, will not, and do not take any responsibility for you or your canners. (In short, know what you are doing so you don’t hurt yourself, your family, your house, your cat or the neighbor who likes to peep out her window to see what you are doing.)
I am going to consider three examples below and tell you what I would do, or in the second two cases, have done, to bring some old technologies into the present.
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A Presto Canner lid showing an older vent pipe, weight and empty over-pressure plug hole, from top-to-bottom: |
In the picture to the left, you see an older Presto canner lid with an older-model vent tube. While I believe these vent tubes are still available, along with a newer-but-different weight, you might decide that you want to upgrade to a [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]three-piece weight set[/easyazon-link].
I’d swap out that old-style vent tube with a new [easyazon_link identifier=”B015ZNB9Y2″ locale=”US” tag=”cwj-20″]Presto 1058 vent tube[/easyazon_link] and use the [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]three-piece weight set[/easyazon-link]. |
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An All-American Canner Lid showing the Petcock, old over-pressure plug and gauge, from left-to-right:
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Here’s an older All-American canner with the petcock and the old-style over-pressure plug. That over-pressure plug is no longer made and the new one won’t fit. What do you do? So long as that over-pressure plug is still intact, it should be fine according to All-American, when I emailed them. (I left mine and it seems to have been fine for years now.) If you need to replace the over-pressure plug, the petcock can be used as an over-pressure device. You would then add a new [easyazon_link identifier=”B015ZNB9Y2″ locale=”US” tag=”cwj-20″]vent-tube[/easyazon_link] and [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]weight[/easyazon-link] in place of your blown-out over pressure plug. |
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A National canner lid showing the over-pressure device, gauge and pressure knob, from left-to-right:
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This National canner is certainly showing its age. It has an ancient over-pressure device and a pressure adjustment knob, that I’ve read was absolutely horrible to set correctly. Of course, the gauge is also a rusty mess. When I bought my small 12-quart National, it was in about the same shape as the one shown in the picture. I replaced that old over-pressure device with a new All-American petcock. The pressure adjustment knob, I replaced with the [easyazon_link identifier=”B015ZNB9Y2″ locale=”US” tag=”cwj-20″]Presto 1058 vent tube[/easyazon_link] and use the [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]50332 weight set[/easyazon-link]. The gauge I replaced with a [easyazon-link asin=”B000GD55LA” locale=”us”]Presto 85771[/easyazon-link]. It’s been working great for a couple years now. |
Again, I won’t recommend that you make modifications to any pressure vessel you may own, but this is what I would do, and have done, to mine.
Note: The last time I ordered the Presto 1058 vent tube, I did not receive the same 1058 vent tube I’ve always gotten. Apparently there is a new design, or the suppliers have messed something up. In order to work with the Presto 3-piece weight set, the 1058 vent tube must have a chamfered or beveled outside edge on top. The two that I received were flat-topped and DID NOT WORK with the 3-piece weight set. Please see my post on the refurbishment of my Presto 21-B Canner for a picture that shows the proper 1058 vent tube that Will work with the 3-piece weight set.
I have an older All American, like shown in your second picture with the petcock and old over-pressure plug which seems to be good (bought it off ebay the other day) However, it is hard to get the lid off without beating it with a rubber mallet. Any suggestions on how I can fix this nuisance? Does it suggest a problem with the canner?
Thank you!
The official recommendation from All-American is to clean the metal-to-metal seal with 0000 steel wool and then to lightly grease it with Vaseline.
0000 steel wool can be found at the local hardware or Wal-Mart or Lowe’s or Home Depot. Gently scrub around the rim of the canner and the lid, rinsing thoroughly. Then apply a light smear of Vaseline to both surfaces.
I’ve found that you may need to apply the Vaseline a couple times before the lid starts releasing easily.
The rubber mallet is probably fine, but a hammer is not recommended. They actually recommend gently prying with a flat-bladed screw driver inserted at an angle at the point where the knobs are. Go from one to another and don’t “jab” the screwdriver in toward the canner for fear of scratching the metal-to-metal seal. But after a time or two with the Vaseline, you should have no problem.
All my All-Americans came from eBay!
Jim
I realize this is several years old, but I just acquired a vintage National canner, similar to the one pictured. It has a toggle petcock (that appears to be a replacement and is in good shape), a gauge (replacing with Presto stem gauge), and a pressure adjustment knob (replacing with Presto vent tube and weight set).
There seems to be no petcock available any more. What options do we have for a replacement part?
I’d be glad to send a picture, if it would be of help.
What I am told, is, the petcocks can remain in place as a secondary over-pressure device, not unlike the rubber or metal over-pressure plugs that are found on some new(er) canners.
The weight set would operate as your pressure regulator as well as a primary over-pressure device, with the petcock coming into play if something went wrong with the weight set or vent tube.
Make sure your new gauge is tested and accurate.
Standard disclaimers apply: I’m in no way related to National, nor Presto, nor any canner manufacturer, and any and all advice I offer is accepted at your own risk.
Jim
Thanks! Once we have the new parts on, I’ll take it to our county extension agent. They still test canners here.
I understand your disclaimer! If the canner had been a flea market find, it would have been somebody else’s treasure. It belonged to a friend whose grandmother used it within the past ten years.
Mary
Hello, I acquired a National pressure cooker that, according to the customer service folks at Presto was manufactured in the 1930s. Overall the unit appears to be in good physical shape with no noticeable cracks or dings but does have some grunge and could use a thorough cleaning. It is of the metal to metal seal design. It does not have a nameplate and the letters appear to be stamped and not cast into the lid. I cannot find a model number but it does have a “17 stamped above the National name. I’d like to replace the pressure adjustment knob with a vent tube and weight set but am unsure of the correct size. I cannot find a model number but it does have a “17 stamped above the National name. I would definitely appreciate any comments or suggestions as well as any help in find a copy of the owners manual.
Thanks!
Eric
Eric,
I think you best bet for a manual for that one would be eBay. Even then, I would think they’d be few and far between.
Based on my small National with metal-to-metal seal, I’d recommend you get a copy of an All-American Canner manual and read what they say about their metal-to-metal seal. The Vaseline trick to keep the lid from sticking is helpful.
Also based on my small National, you should be able to use the Presto 1058 vent tube and 3 piece weight set. Make sure the 1058 that you get has the chamfered edges and that your gauge is accurate.
The older canners frequently had no attached name plate. The model numbers were cast into the aluminum. The 17 probably serves as both the model number as well as indicator of the volume capacity in quarts, were you to fill it with water.
Let us know how it goes!
Jim
Thanks, Jim.
Vent tube and weight set have been ordered and I’ll let you know how it works out.
Cheers!
Eric
Hi! Thanks so much for this info. I have an old National pressure canner I’m restoring. I have a new dial gauge, vent pipe/jiggler weight, but have had a miserable time trying to replace the over-pressure valve. The All American sterilizer control valve is no longer available. Any suggestions as to what else I could use? Thanks so much for your help!
Stephanie,
If you check various mycology shops you should find the parts you are looking for. I bought mine from Fungi Perfecti a few years back. I’ve just checked and the picture is different, so I’m guessing these are no longer All-American parts, but …
Standard disclaimers apply. Only use OEM parts and you don’t get to blame me if something goes wrong! 🙂
http://www.fungi.com/shop/mushroom-cultivation-tools/laboratory-equipment-supplies/pressure-cookers-and-sterilizers.html
I notice that they have both the petcock/stopcock as well as a valve available. Not at all cheap, though, which adds to my speculation that they are not AA parts.
Let us know how things work out!
Jim
Hi, I am looking at an older All American and it has the tilted gauge. If this needs to be replaced can I replace it with the straight gauge or do they still make the tilt gauges? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to the tilted gauge?
Thank you very much for this site.
Ann,
You are welcome.
So far as I know, the advantage to the tilted gauge is that it’s easier to see if you are standing and looking down on the canner. Mind you, I was never a stander. I was a sitter – that’s why there’s barstools in the kitchen! With the three-piece weight set, I sit in the recliner in the den. 😉
The straight gauge should have no problem replacing the tilted one if necessary.
If it’s reasonably priced, I’d say snatch it up quickly!
Jim
You are my only hope. I’m trying to get an old presto pressure cooker, model 604, back in service. I’ve replaced the sealing ring but fir the life of me, I can’t see how to remove the over pressure plug. Current parts now include an automatic air vent instead of tge old plug type. I’ve looked for ideas of how to remove the plug and install the air vent but there’s nothing out there. It was meant to be replaced every couple years. Plug looks to be ok but given its age, I’d feel better replacing it. Any ideas and thank you. I just hate seeing things go into landfills when they can be given new life with parts replacements.
Frank Weir
Frank,
I know you’ve figured it out, but I’m going to include your question and my reply for reference to others.
The over pressure plugs tend to get very hard over time and require increasing amounts of force to remove. Push down from the top and don’t use any hard implement that would be likely to damage the lid in any way. Depending on the seal/vent/plug kit you run across, some of them have both the plug and the air vent. The air vent is typically used for canners, but could be used with a cooker with no problem.
Ever couple years is probably too often. Replace the rubber parts when they start getting stiff, or especially when they start cracking! Having an extra set of rubber parts in the house is probably less important for the cooker, but is always recommended for the canner. Being in the middle of putting up 100 pounds of tomatoes is not the time to run to a store for a part!
Jim
Many thanks Jim! Exactly right. My old plug was rock hard. I pushed from the inside outward. The new air vent installed like a charm. I feel better with the vent and its indicator-plunger system! I’m going to be looking forward to your posts! I am enjoying learning how to cook. I started learning after developing type 2 diabetes and needing to change my eating and diet.
i have an older canner I was wondering if you could answer a few questions about. The name of the canner is Automatic Canning Devices Inc. out of Chicago Illinois. On the lid is a toggle style pop off valve and a gauge but no other relief device or hole. My questions are would it be safe to replace the toggle with a weighted rocker style relief system since there is no other pop off and can you give me any information on the manufacturer of the canner. Thanks
Billy,
I have no information on the manufacturer.
As to your other question, I can offer two thoughts. One is my standard disclaimer: I’m not a canner manufacturer and you take any advice by me or this site at your own risk. Second is that I have replaced the petcock on one of my All-American canners with a vent tube and weight system. It would depend on if the threads of your petcock are standard to the other canners as to whether you may be able to substitute a new vent tube.
Jim
Okay thanks. My main concern was safety and I could not see any reason why changing it to a vent tube weight system would cause any problems but was hoping I didnt miss anything with the pop off.
I was given an All American canner by a friend. It looks very similar to the one featured above. That and other research leads me to believe its a model 7. I also have a Mirro 0406 from the same source. How do I test the over pressure plugs?
I know of no way to test the over pressure plugs. Gauges and seals can be tested, but an over-pressure plug test would ruin the plug, I think.
Jim
I read that the plugs should be supple and if they are at all brittle, you should replace them. I bought an old pressure cooker at Salvation Army, bought a new rubber ring and plug online for it. They are inexpensive. Just replace it so you won’t worry.
I am having a devil of a time trying to remove an old vent tube (like the one in your first picture) on a 16 qt Magic Seal Canner that was my grandmother’s. I want to convert it to using the 3-piece weight. Any tips for getting that stubborn thing to move? Yes, I’m turning it counterclockwise–even checked the threads showing to be sure it wasn’t an anomaly.
Beth,
As I recall, I used a large & long Crescent wrench on mine. I’ve removed them from several canners and most have had no problems. I had to buy a tap and die set to clean up the threads on one of my Prestos.
People had suggested penetrating oil, but I just couldn’t bring myself to use WD-40 on a food container! Mine eventually let go, but it wasn’t easy.
Another thought would be to heat it up and try it. Then let it cool and try it. Maybe the heating and cooling would expand / contract it enough that it would loosen up.
Jim
I have an old Presto 7B canner with the numbers 16 49 68 stamped on the outside rim of the lid; any idea what they mean? Batch, year f manufacture maybe?
Roy,
The 16 should be the volume measurement if the canner in quarts. The 68 is the year, I think. And I suspect the middle number is the week of manufacture.
Jim
Ecstatic to have found this page and your pc site Sir! Wife found me my first aa-pc#7 (915) at an estate sale 2 weeks ago. Order all new parts on 17July’17 and got them installed a few days later to do my first ever (I owe beer! ) 8 pts of snap green beans…!! But deff after I did an initial test on the dial gauge and aa vent stem and weighted gauge! SUCCESS!
AS sent me at my request from ordering the parts, 2 rubber “over pressure plugs” part no. 59065 that I see no way of them working in this top cover… Q?, Would I be correct in this assumption? I emailed red hill Sunday afternoon but no reply at of yet.. I removed the old op plug and “cleaned” without poking through anything bc im not sure how that op plug actually works. So I just reinstalled the plug and went about my test and subsequent 20 min processing of green beans, but never leaving the stove… like a kid staring at the chimney on Christmas eve!! Lol.. Q2, Is there a way to test to over pressure plug without destroying it?
Anyway, I as well as others (it’s obvious) truly thank you for your “piddling/expertise” in what I’ve been seeing as a resurgence of home food preserving.. As former small business owner, the disclaimer is all good! 😉
Be well and may the pressure be in all of our flavor!
Danny
Danny,
Some of the old AA canners didn’t have any over pressure device except the petcock. Others had the small metal plugs like I believe is on yours. What I was told – I think from AA, but it’s been a long while – is that inside the center of the plug is a bit of metal that will melt or blow out at a temperature or pressure that is too high. Obviously the rubber ones don’t fit there.
What was recommended by AA is that you can put the petcock in place of the old metal over pressure plug and install a vent tube where the petcock was.
As of a couple years ago, AA was making the metal over pressure plugs for their sterilizers but it wasn’t recommended to use them on canners. I don’t understand why. The same think for the petcock. They were still being made but weren’t supposed to be used on canners.
Testing the OP plugs – to my knowledge – destroys them. Since the petcock is spring loaded my assumption is that it could be tested, but I can’t imagine it would be something I’d want to do in my kitchen. 😉 I also don’t use petcocks anymore since I’ve converted everything to weights.
Jim
JIM, how do you convert an AA petcock to a weight, and what purpose does or did the petcock have, if there is also an over pressure plug? I’m thinking the petcock was/is a second over pressure safety. Correct?
Robin,
The petcock was the valve that you’d use to start the pressure buildup as well as ensure all pressure / vacuum was released after canning and cool down. It also functioned as a pressure release. Some older canners didn’t have an over-pressure plug, so it was the only over pressure device.
Older canners may have a metal over pressure plug which AA told me was no longe available, and that if the old plug ever blew out to use a petcock in its place as the over-pressure device.
To convert to a weight you’d add the vent tube in place of the petcock. Though, if you do have a canner with the metal over-pressure plug, I would recommend keeping that petcock just in case you ever need it.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Thank you for the post.
I have a old AA 921 with a metal over pressure plug. I was going to replace the pet cock with the regulator weights. should I replace the metal over pressure plug with the pet coco or leave it?
Melanee
Melanee,
I didn’t replace my metal over pressure plugs – in fact, I found some extras on eBay to have around. Mostly it was an aesthetic thing for me: I like the way they look.
So long as the center hasn’t melted out, my understanding from WafCo is that they are perfectly safe.
Jim
Argh… I should of read Julie’s question from January 2017 about testing the op plugs… UNLESS, you’ve learned something new since then??
I certainly don’t have any more information. Perhaps AA could offer some advice.
Jim
How does the toggle valve function as an over pressure valve?
John,
I was told it’s spring loaded and it’ll release the pressure if it builds up enough.
Jim
I have a All American number 7 with the metal overpressure plug. I was told by All American that there is lead (pb) in that plug. Does anybody know if the lead is sealed or does it come into contact with the contents? I’ll be using this to cook food and do not want lead to come in contact with my food.
John,
I would suggest contacting the manufacturer directly to see what they say. I don’t cook in any of my canners, so I’ve never given any thought to this, but I can’t imagine the direct exposure would be a good thing.
Jim
I have a 6yr old 930 and our water has tarnished the inside. Looks like a bath ring. I have boiled it with creaming soda to see if it can be removed but so far not successful.
Any ideas on how I can remove this?
– btw this was a second hand item and it looks like the base has a “pitted surface” almost like something has corroded it. Been tempted to get the local metal work shop to brush it up like they do with stainless steel.
Karen,
I wouldn’t worry too much about it, if it were me. But I’m not much on caring so much how they look so long as they work.
I wouldn’t think putting industrial polishing compounds on a canner would be a good idea, though.
Jim
Hi, I have and old No. 7 National. I cant get the seal ring out other than chip by chip and then there is lots of residue. I agree, WD40 would scare me a bit. Any ideas? It is completely solid-digging it out causing scratches. Thanks!
Karen,
I have seen small sets of brushes that are meant for getting old finishes out of wooden crevices in refinishing projects. That and plastic putty knives come to mind. Otherwise, you might try boiling some water in it with the lid sitting atop it. The heat might soften the old seal.
Jim
Late to this thread but I just purchased a National 7 canner with the same issue. Looked like the sealing ring had never neen replaced and basically fossilized and became one with the canner. Solid as a rock and the mineral deposits acting as a glue holding it in place. What I did to remove it was put some water in the canner with some vinegar and put the lid on and brought it to a boil. It did leak out the sides a bit, but small price to pay. I turned off the heat and left the lid on and let the steam soften the ring and the mineral deposits and was able to pull the sealing ring out carefully. Wanted to make sure I got it all out from under the ridge too. It worked well for me.
Sharon,
Very nice! Sometimes the simplest solutions . . .
Jim
Thoughts on replacing the vent tube on an old ’60s 21b with a mirro/AA vent tube so Ican use the 5/10/15 round weight? I have these on hand and it screws right in where the origional came out.
Jessica,
I don’t see why that would be a problem, but standard disclaimers apply: it’s not approved by the manufacturer and if you blow up your kitchen, I’m not responsible.
I once asked AA and they assure me that the Mirro vent tube and weight is not the same as the AA. Certainly my eyes can’t tell the difference; I have no tools capable of measuring such things.
Jim
Thanks for your reply, Jim. I ran a canner load of red kidney beans last night(20 pts) and it did great. The guage read between 11-13 # and all sealed but 1 with very little siphoning. Im going to call it a success!
Hi, hoping you can help me out here. I was recently gifted an old National 7 canner that I hope to refurb. Are the parts for it & the Presto 7 interchangeable? And….. where does the Automatic Air Vent go? I see it on every order page I can find for Presto 7 parts but there’s nothing resembling that on the canner currently & no place that I can see for it to go. All it has is a gauge, an overpressure plug, and an old style vent pipe that I plan to swap out for one that can use Presto 5-10-15 weights. Finally, speaking of overpressure plugs, I could swear I’d heard somewhere that these old ones weren’t replaceable but again I’m seeing them on every ordering site. Am I mixed up or can they really be replaced? (I wouldn’t trust the old one – you can see where the rubber has shrunk over the years…)
Bonnie,
My belief is that the parts will be interchangeable.
I think yours may be old enough that it doesn’t have any place for an Automatic Air Vent. If you had a spot, there’d be a hole in the middle of the lid.
What sort of over pressure plug does yours have? In some cases, there’s a metal one that you probably can’t find a replacement for. If you do have a hole in the center of your lid, the Automatic Air Vent functions as the vent as well as the over pressure plug.
The seal/gasket kit typically comes with the overpressure plug/Automatic Air Vent.
Let us know how it turns out!
Jim
Thanks Jim! You were a lot more helpful than Presto…. I explained that I had a National No 7 and asked if the parts for the Presto No 7 were interchangeable, pretty much like I did above. In return, I got a VERY condescending response that they aren’t interchangeable because the National is a 16 quart canner (if that’s even what I have because I need to fill it with water & measure how many quarts it uses to be sure that’s what it is – no matter what the label says & the minor little fact that it’s sitting right next to my 15 quart & they’re pretty near the same size) and that the Presto 7A is a 21 quart canner so OF COURSE THEY WON’T WORK…..
I just sent back a response asking WHERE THE HECK DID A 7A even come into question, that I ***know*** the National and Presto No. 7’s are both 16 quart canners, they’re even listed that way on the Presto website (and attached the link).
****Sigh**** Customer service is a thing of the past….
p.s. Hopefully I’ll be posting pics of the finished canner in a week or so. I’m stealing a vent pipe that had already been updated on an old Presto 7B that has other issues & have a gasket and air vent on order FROM AMAZON, not Presto!
p.s.s. Any suggestions for getting a solidified gasket out of an old 7B? It just shattered with the portion down in the groove still there when I tried to pull it out and that stuff is in there TIGHT, like someone poured cement into the groove… Of course, the point may be moot because as of right now, I’m not getting the lid on the 7B to work correctly, something metal is binding, so it may be a lost cause. Hope not but I’ve only got $4 invested in both it and the National so I can’t complain too much!
Bonnie,
Glad I could be of help.
To my knowledge, the parts on all those old National / Presto canners that have the domed lids are pretty near interchangeable. But I’m not the manufacturer, so the standard disclaimer applies … don’t take my thoughts as gospel. 😉
As for the old gasket, it will probably need to be picked out. Try starting with something non-metal such as a toothpick. If you go with a metal pick of any sort, you’d have to be extra careful not to gouge the channel and create a leak.
Jim
Hello, I have an All American 151/2 quart no.7 that has a petcock, tilted gauge and thats it! There isnt an over pressure relief plug. How do I bring this up to date? Do I keep the petcock as my over pressure relief and drill a new hole for a weighted air vent? If so is there anything I have to know about drilling and installing the vent? Please help. I am lost.
Lisa,
I would ask WAFCO / All-American for the specifics and a real answer, but I’m sure drilling the lid would be a bad idea. I’d probably just go with it as-is if I wanted to use it as a dial-gauge canner.
Jim
I have a Presto 2.5 qt pressure cooker that is in great shape, but can’t find a regulator for atop the pressure stem. I also have a newer Presto 6 qt. that seems to have the exact sized stem, but the pot got dropped and cracked, so I keep for parts (have 3 Presto 6 qts. the same). Can I use the stem from the newer 5 qt. Presto to replace the Presto 2.5 qt so that I now have regulator (comes from the newer stem as well) for the 2.5 at. pressure cooker?
Kathleen,
I would say probably, but it would be best – at least – compare model numbers on those stems before doing it. If you have the model number, you should be able to find the parts online.
Jim
I have 3 presto pressure canners… two I purchased new 10 years ago or so, and are the 23 qt aluminum. One I picked up at a yard sale a while back and is an old harvest gold shorter model. It has worked great for me but today it won’t come up to pressure, and I realized the automatic air vent – I think that’s what it is – was leaking, not sealing. On my newer ones, this is an overpressure plug and is just rubber, but on this older one, it is rubber with a little piece of metal in the middle that pops up under pressure. I have some extra overpressure plugs that came with the seals/gaskets to my newer ones, and it fits perfectly in there, but I’m afraid to use it if it’s just going to blow out or something. Do you know if I can use a plain rubber overpressure plug that comes with the newer ones, or do I need to buy a replacement that is the same style?
Jennifer,
It sounds like you should probably buy a new seal and automatic air vent kit; they typically come together. I wonder that if the automatic air vent is in need of replacement, your seal is also.
I think, though I know of no way to confirm this, that the regular over-pressure plug came along before the automatic air vent and the automatic air vent was used to retrofit canners that originally came with just the plug.
I find the automatic air vent is convenient. During the initial heating stage, by the time it pops up it is very nearly ready to start timing the venting. When cooling down, it prevents any vacuum from forming in the canner, which is my one complaint about my All-American canners.
My recommendation is to pick up a new air vent and sealing ring kit and replace both.
Jim
I acquired a very old 915 AA canner that has no overpressure plug. Can I switch it over to a weighted gauge canner without having the plug?
Cindy,
I did this on one of my AA canners. I suggest you reach out to WAFCO for an official recommendation from them, though – to be sure.
Jim
I have an ancient A.S. Aloe pressure cooker that looks a lot like an All-American. It has two things that concern me—a significant pit in the bottom, and a long piece of flexible conduit coming from the petcock that would be submerged in the water. I’m interested in your thoughts on the pit and retrofitting this thing with All-American parts—pressure valve and gauge. Thank you!
Jock,
I suspect that you have an autoclave / sterilizer. At least with the All American sterilizers, they do not recommend conversion to use as a canner, though I know people do that. A quick Google search suggests that A.S. Aloe was in medical equipment, so … probably a sterilizer.
As for the pit, I’d say don’t even think about pressurizing it. You don’t want a blow-out or worse!
Jim
Thanks, Jim!
I want to thank you all for this thread. I bought an AA #7 at an auction and now have a real sense of how to ensure I can upgrade it and use it safely. This is the Internet at its best. Mine has the metal over pressure valve, and although it seems ok, I am much more comfortable using the old petcock in its place, since I am adding the new valve and weight in its place. Also just bought a new gauge, even though with the weight its purpose is now largely advisory. Thanks again for all the helpful info.
Joe,
Glad to have been of help! This is the reason this post exists!
Jim
Hello! I’m looking at a Kook Knick #11 on eBay, and the seller is unsure if it requires a gasket.
Would you know if it does, and if so, where the appropriate one would be available?
Thanks a million!
Bob,
If you are talking about the Kook Kwick that has a band that wraps around it that holds on the lid …
It doesn’t look like it requires a gasket, but I know nothing about that model or whether it is still considered safe. There was another brand and model of canner that had a band that wrapped around it and that band was known to release under pressure – rather catastrophically as I understand it. I don’t know if they were related. I don’t know if the Kook Kwick has a similar problem. So, buyer beware, don’t take any chances, and don’t blow up your kitchen or yourself.
Jim
I have both a 16 and 22 Kook Kwick with the wrap band. Both have been in service since they were new almost 90 yrs ago. 1 handed down from my grandmother to me, the other purchased from another party who used it for years when it was passed to her. They do not use a gasket, they are metal on metal like the AA. The band has a crank bolt that you tighten just like you crank a vise. With the KK you do need to make sure your band is seated properly on the bevel of the lid and bottom or I suppose it could pop. As long as you properly seat the band and it is sound at the hinge and joints where the lock is they will not pop off. Presto and county extension offices can test KK gauges. You can take the over pressure valve apart to clean it. It should blow off steam at 18-20 lbs if the spring is still good. The fussy petcock adjustment problem was only an issue if you were using an uncontrolled heat source like a wood stove and had to vent slightly to control pressure.
Emmy
Thank you for this post! I just bought a Kook-Kwick #11 with wrap band in very good condition and was having second thoughts about using it for safety issues. I am bringing it in to get the gauge tested and gave also ordered a weighted valve from AA to replace the original valve (screw top).
Christian,
I know nothing about that wrap-band model. I’d advise spending some time online trying to track down whether it’s considered safe. There was another brand with a different band and design that was definitely not safe. I simply don’t know enough to advise.
Do some research before pressurizing it and don’t blow yourself up!
Jim
A silly question, has anyone out there got an old petcock for sale. I am wanting some of these, thanks.
Mario
Mario,
Check ebay and if new would work, look for All-American Sterilizer parts. I believe their sterilizers still use the petcock and they are still made.
Jim
Hello Jim, I have a all american 1915x that I thought was a canner when I bought it but it is a sterilizer :(. Can I convert it to be a pressure canner? It has a petcock, dial gauge, and what I think is an over pressure guage like you second picture.
Ashley,
I don’t remember where I saw this answer, but … I remember that the official answer from WAFCO is “no.” I don’t understand that answer because it seems to me they are the same with the exception of that sterilizer basket and that strange sterilizer tube. I “think” I even looked up parts once and everything was the same. But the official answer is “no.”
I’ve always thought that with a standard rack and unscrewing that tube it would be just fine. I’ve not done it. I think I remember a forum post from somewhere that someone had done it. I certainly can’t recommend it and take no responsibility if you do it.
I also remember that there was a thread somewhere many years ago about AA’s electric sterilizers and their suitability for canning. I don’t know that anyone ever tried those.
Jim
Jim – Thanks for your very informative original post and all of the detailed replies! This helped me a great deal when I was looking at second hand pressure canners in general, and second hand All American pressure canners specifically. I eventually settled on a reasonable priced All American No 7 with petcock.
Amusing story – the family I bought my All American from are Italian, and had replaced the older threaded over pressure valve with an unusual looking brass fitting. When I asked what that was about I was told that they’d actually used the canner as a still to make grappa!
I took your advice and moved the petcock to the over pressure location and ordered the vent and weight.
Ron,
Being in the American South, I’m confident that canners have been used for moonshine as well!
The AA is pretty amazing! You’ll love it.
Jim
Hi there I am looking for specific info for how to change an All American dial gauge to weighted guage, I thought I had read on here how to do it but now I cant find it! Can you help? Thanks, Jill
Jill,
You could be thinking of either of the following posts:
http://cookingwithjim.com/three-pressure-canner-weight-sets/
http://cookingwithjim.com/converting-or-upgrading-an-old-pressure-canner/
If there’s anything else, I’ve forgotten about it and can’t find it myself! 🙂
In general, you’d replace the petcock with the AA vent tube and weight.
Jim
Thanks for these instructions. I just converted an old AA 915 I found for $40 on Facebook. Now on to converting my mom’s and any of my aunts that want the weight.
Nice!
I have a 1996 Mirro 22 qt pressure canner. I have misplaced the weight and am having difficulty finding a replacement that is reasonably priced and in stock at the moment. I purchased one on ebay, but, it is “lost in the mail” according to the USPS. I have an older pressure cooker, but the vent tube is the kind that has a flat top and the weight I have for it will not fit the 22 qt. canner which has a “pointy” top. Is there a way I can swap out the vent tubes so I will be able to use my 22qt. while waiting to find a replacement weight? Thank you and God Bless.
Sherry,
I don’t have enough Mirro knowledge to commend intelligently. If the weight is the “hockey puck” style, it looks like there are plenty available on eBay. Though, I’d understand you being “gun shy” about trying that again.
Jim
Hi, I belong to several Facebook groups on canning and they are great about answering questions, but I would like a book, also. I have two of the Ball books on preserving that are new, but it doesn’t always correspond with my 1958 Mirromatic 8 quart cooker. The original book I got with it only has a very pages in it on pressure canning. Most of it pertains to pressure cooking. Do you know of any old or new books that would pertain more to the old canners? Thank you so much.
Karen,
I don’t know of anything in particular that would be for old canners. I caution that newer recommendations work just fine with old canners.
The gold standard would be So Easy to Preserve from the University of Georgia. Going through the National Center for Home Food Preservation (also UGA), would be the place I’d recommend starting:
https://nchfp.uga.edu/
Jim
Hi, I’m a practicing canner in Australia, not that many of us around over here most people who preserve only bottle fruit. Any way I own 2 Presto and one old All American Pressure canners. One Presto and the All-American have been cleaned polished and restored. However I have run into a problem with the All-American as recieved it came with a petcock which I want to replace with a valve stem and weight. I ultimately ordered both from a supplier in Australia but only recieved the weight and was told the valve stems were out of stock. I had sought one by post from the USA as it is often that purchases from USA plus post are far less expensive that paying the prices wanted over here unfortunately I was told the supplier was out of stock or they did not post to Australia. I have now been waiting over a year and the supplier is still out of stock. I have started searching for an USA supplier that will post to Australia. But as a fall back I am considering convertinf the All-American to accept a Presto valve stem and weight, bith of which are availabe over here. I propose to do it using a fitting that is called a nipple over here its a connerctor that joins threadded fittings. I know )or believe) the All-American thread is a 1/8-28 NPT but have no idea what the Presto Valve Stem’s thread is. Can anyone help me?
Yours in hope Craig Beckett.
Craig,
I’m hampered by not knowing what’s available in Australia, but I’ll tell you what I did to my All-Americans. I used Presto parts. I’m sure that both Presto and Wafco would tell us not to do it, and I certainly can’t recommend that anyone makes a non-OEM change to their pressure vessel.
I used the Presto 1058 vent tube on my All-Americans. In the US, there’s at least one third-party manufacturer of Presto parts. Supposedly they are interchangeable. Perhaps I got some bad vent tubes a few years ago, but I wound up with two that do NOT work properly with the Presto weights. See my 21-B refurbishment page for a close-up of what to look for.
The 1058 is used in Presto’s cast-aluminum canners and is 1/8 NPT. Assuming you can get a 1058, it should fit, I’d think.
I did buy a 1/8 NPT tap and die set to clean up the threads in some of my lids. I have even had to use it to clean up threads on brand new gauges.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Thank for the info regarding the thread in the Presto, I have given the supplier that I ordered the vent from one last chance and if he does not reply/answer in the affirmative I will ask for my money back. We have very strong consumer protection laws here and they will have to refund. Unfortunately I paid $39.00 Australian for the weight and will not get my money back. The All-American Valve stem itself is $19.95 Australian and I was hoping to use it.
Regards
Craig.
HI again,
Jim I have loked for a 1058 valve stem/vent pipe snd it seems they are also not available over here, th only one that is available is the Presto 85608. Any ideas as to the thread size on these?
Craig.
Craig,
The 85608 is the one for the stamped-aluminum canners, I believe. The nut screws off and fits under the thin stamped lid.
Is something like Amazon an option for you? Would they be big enough to get something over to you? They currently have at least one of the All-American and the 1058 listed.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I have just taken the valve stem off one of my Presto Canners part 85608 and it is as you say its for a thin lid with a nut inside. Unfortunately It is as I believed, the thread is considerably smaller (in diameter) than the thread on the All American and to make it fit I would need a change nipple with a male thread for the size for the All American and a female thread sized to fit the Presto.
Does anyone know the thread size of the 85608?
As for Amazon the vendor that is offering the 1058 will not post to Australia.
The vendor from whoom I ordered the All American valve stem from has responded and tells me they have no idea when they will be recieving a shipment and are offering a refund. I have accepted the offer and will continue to seek alternatives.
Craig.
Craig,
I have no clue about the thread sizing or the bushing/nipple/whatever may be required to adapt. I’m sure it could be done safely – don’t blow up your kitchen, please.
Is there any availability of the Mirro vent tube and weight in Australia? I’ve never seen the AA versions in person. My understanding is that while they look similar, they are not interchangeable.
So far as I know there’s only three brands of 3-pressure weight sets. Presto, Mirro, and the AA.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I have located an American company that is willing to send a 1058 stem to Australia, they are called aedpshop.com, and seem to offer some amazing prices, for the vent tube they wanted AU $2.75 I think it was but wanted AU $25 for postage, but as they also were offering free postage for orders over AU $50 I bought other stuff. We will see if I have thrown my money away or not as ome of their prices seemed to be unbelievably low such as $10 or so for lodge cast iron pans. No idea how long the mail from the US will take but we will see.
Craig.
Hi, it seems that the items I thought I was purchasing from a US store are actually comming from a Chinese store/wharwhouse. I have received notification that they have been posted???
Maybe they’ll show up this time!
Jim
Hi Jim, The saga of the valve stem continues, the sudo US, actually Chinese Eshop aedpshop.com package sent in mid January arrived mid March but it did not contain my order. Instead it contained a fake Cartier gold ring. (An item I have no use for even if it was actuallt made by Cartier). I asked them to eithetr send me the items I ordered or give me a refund. Their response was to offer me 25% refund and tell me to keep the ring in place of the other 75%. I have declined a number of times and demanded my order or a full refund. I am now seeking my money back through Visa, but will be making sure I warn people of the antics of this store. As for the valve stem, I told the company I had originally ordered an All american valve stem and weight through to send me a refund as they had had my order in for over a year and then ordered the presto valve stem through aedpshop and thought no more of it. After the aedp shop fiasco I checked my visa account for the refund and discovered that the original shop had not actually refunded my money. I noticed they seemed to be advertising the All-American valve stem again and after an argument about them not refunding the money I got them to send me a valve stem instead. So my All-American is now complete Just in time for the end of the canning season. As Autum or as you call it Fall arrives in the mountain here the weather has cooled and all that seems to be still growing are Eggplants, Zucchini, Capsicums & Tomatoes (very slowly ripening). The Capsicums I preserve chopped up in the freezer, The eggplants I fry some and then freeze them the remainder I produce jars of eggplant under oil. The Zucchini I also put some under oil but the majority is dehydrated and will be used in soups etc.
Craig,
I was getting ready to volunteer to ship something to you! I’m glad it worked out in the end.
Now, seriously: wear that ring with pride!
Jim
When replacing the gauge on a 1940’s, National, No. 7 canner, do I need to put anything on the threads to make sure it doesn’t leak?
Barbara,
I never use any sort of sealant and have never seen a reference to it.
Jim
We recently found an A.A. C17 in nearly new condition. It came with several interesting inserts; a cast bottom-trivet with 3 threaded holes. There are three short and three long legs that fit in the trivet. There is also a perforated pan insert, and a pair of half-round pan inserts. They are still new. Just what they were intended to be used for is a curiosity to me. I was wondering if anyone knew where I may find a manual for this beauty.
Berferd,
I don’t know the C17 off the top of my head. Is it a domed-lid canner with a flat rubber seal? Or does it have wing-nuts to tighten down?
If it’s a domed-lid with a flat rubber seal, you could get a very good general idea from any one of the Presto manuals I have posted.
Jim
Oops. Was looking at an AA when I was typing. It is a National C17, not an AA ( my wife has 2 AAs)
Aquired this 1940 cooker made at foundry in milwaukee. I live in Alaska and can lots fish and moose. Its big, 4 feet tall, 30 inches wide. I need to upgrade guage, pressure release and weights. Any special size for such a large cooker?
James,
What brand is it? Is it an All American?
My experience with cast-aluminum Prestos and All Americans are that the threads used for the gauges and petcocks are all the same.
To my knowledge you wouldn’t need any special size gauge to go with your especially large canner.
How many quart jars does that thing hold?
Jim
I have a wonderful old National cooker 7A that I’ve happily canned with for over 30 years (bought at garage sale for $5 back in the 1980’s). It’s similar to your 21-B and holds 16 pints stacked. It has used a flip-over petcock and older style, rubber smooth top, pressure plug most similar to the arrangement shown in your “Converting or Upgrading an Old Pressure Canner” for the All American (see my pictures). Now, finally, the poor pressure plug deteriorated to the point it blew a hole this week. How’s that for lasting!
Unfortunately, however, I’m totally confused about how to fix this and am thrown by the different terminology used by folks for the same parts! I do see some similar over pressure plugs available for Presto (#9915), American (#2040) & Mirro (https://www.pressurecooker-canner.com/mirroplug.html) but don’t have the foggiest if any will fit – or how to change it! The Mirro assembly looks the closest but, of course, there’s nothing wrong with the metal part of the plug assembly.
In your notes you say “If you need to replace the over-pressure plug, the petcock can be used as an over-pressure device. You would then add a new vent-tube and weight in place of your petcock.”. I don’t understand exactly what you’re saying here. Do you mean replace the petcock with a tube & weight? If so, what do you do with the over-pressure hole in the canner top?
Can you please help and clarify this for an un-technical old person?
Thanks for any help
Pat
PS: I emailed Presto and got an SOL response telling me the canner is “obsolete” and throw it! HA!
Pat,
If you could find a new old stock vintage over pressure plug somewhere that would fit, you could use that. I managed to find someone on eBay that had some.
That being unlikely, what you could do if I had this canner would be to replace that plug with a nice new 1058 vent tube and 3 piece weight set. The petcock would then remain closed. I’ve done this on some of my canners.
The rubber over pressure plugs are not going to fit in place of your threaded one.
I’ve corrected my wording. It should have said to use a new vent-tube and weight in place of the blown-out over pressure plug rather than in place of the petcock.
Jim
Thanks, Jim. I believe I’m “getting it” now. It seems you’re saying to simply remove the remaining metal valve portion of the overpressure plug and replace it with a new vent tube and weight? Guess my question then is if the existing petcock that remains on the lid (closed position) would then pop/flip open should a critical pressure be reached (serving as an overpressure safety)?
If I have it right all I really need is a new vent tube since I already have three extra Presto weights (one a 3-part) from other pots! I guess it won’t hurt to join the modern world with the old guy & go to weights but it really is frustrating that I can’t find a simple rubber cap to fit the existing metal overpressure valve.
Thanks again and please let me know if I have things “right”.
Pat,
WAFCO – the folks that make the All-American pressure canners, said that for this conversion on their canners, their petcock would operate as an overpressure device. I don’t know about yours. If you can tell if it has a spring in it, then, I would guess it would.
I can tell you that one of my canners is old enough that it has no way to release pressure except through it’s vent tube…and I’m OK with that. Some people wouldn’t be, of course.
I think that I had the same rubber cap over pressure plug on my National / Presto / Sears / Kook-Kwick / Bestmade 14-21. I lucked out and found an eBay seller with an old stock all-metal plug. It’s not the same, but it’s still vintage and works for me.
I think you are on the same track that I would be on, for whatever that’s worth. 🙂
Jim
Pat,
Another thought! When you order your vent tube, see if you can ensure that it’s a Presto-branded one. There are at least two third-party makers and of those, one just simply was wrong; it didn’t work. I ordered two 1058 vent tubes a few years ago and they did not work with the Presto weights – the pressure was way off.
Jim
PSS –And please….any hints for removing these old metal plugs that have been in place for who know how long? Would hate to strip the threads on the hole. Thanks again.
Pat,
My only hint would be to get whatever wrench you use to be exactly the correct fit so that it doesn’t slip, to go slowly, and realize that you may still cause thread damage.
My 14-21 that had what I think is the same plug as yours, had a good bit of thread damage upon removal. And I had to use vice grips and a lot of force.
All may not be lost. The threads are 1/8 NPT and the holes are tapered. I have had to clean up threads on multiple lids (and one BRAND NEW gauge) using a tap and die set. So far I’ve still been able to get everything to seal. At least one gauge is pretty much seated all the way down against the lid, though.
Jim
Again, thank you for your kind words, Jim. First, my question re the petcock functioning as as an overpressure release was really academic as, like you, I really am not too concerned about it. But….YES…I learned what you’re talking about with the 1058 vent tube! I, too, got one in yesterday that, while -not completely flat on the jiggler end – it certainly doesn’t have the degree of bevel or chamfer as on the older ones! Since I do have another “right one” on a smaller pot (used only for popcorn) I’m thinking I may try & steal that one off it for the big guy! 🙂
Removing the old metal plug does give me heartburn just thinking about it as my handyman (hubby) doesn’t have any clue on using tap & die (funny that one of his grandpa’s was a machinist). Can only hope for the best.
I just know for sure that I don’t want to have to use my 1990’s 16 qt stainless steel Presto that stays as far back in the cupboard as I can get it! We’ll try & get to the project later in the week & I’ll let you know the outcome. Thanks again. Pat
Pat,
Tap and die sets aren’t difficult so long as you take care to get the threads and cutters lined up. Otherwise … you’ll mess stuff up. 🙂
Tell me about a STAINLESS Presto canner, please! I didn’t think one had ever been made in stainless!
Jim
Well, Jim…of course you’re right! I couldn’t have told you more wrong on the “stainless”. I’ve hidden that monster so long I should have kept my mouth shut. Dragged it out and first, it’s really a cooker and a not 16 but 6 qt (will do 4 pints) and is a polished aluminum! Guess the polish threw me off since that pot will scorch & stick any food cooked in it. Sorry. 🙁
Pat,
The “canning police” that live in my head tell me to repeat: a pressure pot that can’t hold at least 4 quart jars is not a canner and you can’t be sure it’ll produce safe food since the timings are for larger vessels.
Or words to that effect.
Jim
No joy, Jim. An issue’s come up not even discussed (could have seen had I looked – and thought!). Anyway, for what it’s worth the old metal pressure release plug came out easily (yea!) and the replacement tube (with the bevel) replaced it – also easily. But…as you can see from my pic – the proximity of the retained petcock to the tube is too close for a weight to jiggle 🙁
Since I first heated the pot up to check for leaks around the replacement tube I noticed another thing. I had the petcock closed and the venting through the replacement tube had a much lower steam volume than the open petcock had but – alternately – when I let it continue venting for what should have been a usual venting time (5-10 min) the pot by about 3-4 minutes of venting seemed to be gaining too much pressure and I was having major seal leaks (much more than a “usual” type). It was at that point I thought maybe to try venting with the petcock (as it has for years) with the jiggler in place on the new tube. That’s when, of course, I found out it was too close to function.
So…..be glad to hear any other ideas but it’s seeming to me that I may be SOL unless I can find either another metal overpressure plug or rubber cap for my old one.
Pat,
I’m sure the vent tube is more restrictive than the open petcock – that’s fine. Certainly the gauge can report a couple pounds of pressure during venting. That also is fine.
Jim
PS Have thought of two possibilities but both seem to be long shots
1. Swap spots between the pressure gauge and new vent tube/jiggler – but the petcock and gauge would be only an inch apart and the steam would blow directly at the gauge when venting – might not be a problem but doesn’t sound good.
2. Find something to completely plug the overpressure hole and just ignore it 🙂
Pat,
If it were me, I’d move the gauge to be near the petcock and leave the petcock closed and not worry about it.
I’ll throw another option out there. If you look for All American Sterilizer parts you may find a metal over pressure plug. WAFCO officially says that they are NOT interchangeable with the canner parts. But … at your own risk, etc.
Oh! Another option. All American and Mirro use a different (and not interchangeable, I’m told) weight and vent tube. It’s a “hockey puck” style. I can’t tell from the picture if there’d be enough room to squeeze it in – but maybe. I’ve also not used that style. I’m fine with the Presto jigglers.
Jim
Ah…I HAD the solution all the time but had gotten confused. When this whole thing started I had ordered some parts but got off track with concerning myself with a new tube (had been told I “needed”) & then using a jiggler weight. One of the parts I had gotten, however, is the only one I really needed and IS a “safety valve” – an adjustable NC25 -001 25-50 psi that was preset for me. That sits on top of an adapter that fits the hole in the canner. All now working perfectly! I will, of course, have to continue old-school canning using just the dial (as I have for 30+ years!). No big deal really for me since usually I have more than enough to do in the kitchen when I’m canning.
After talking with you I finally learned more than I ever wanted to know about canners 🙂 Really, thank you so much.
Pat,
Oh, that’s nifty!
Where’d you get those parts?
Jim
I used the puck style on one as the round one didn’t have enough clearance. Works great.
And for everyones info a little heat is your friend when working on this kind of stuff just don’t get carried away and only heat around the fitting to be removed not the fitting itself.
They get tight from a process called electrolysis which is caused by dissimilar metals causes a white ‘rust’ in the treads.
Hope this helps someone. I enjoyed reading the entire post.
Morning, Jim. Got it from Cooking and Canning Company. The link to that part/assembly is https://www.cookingandcanning.net/cdrvnc25gra.html. The valve is called a Non Code Safety Relief Valve and is commonly used in the air compressor/vehicle industry and needs the adapter to fit the hole in the canner. Again, I got hung up on the tube/jiggler issue as they also sent me a new vent tube (the one I mentioned with little to no chamfer). When I ordered they weren’t aware of the tight clearance between the holes on the 7A. When I finally thoroughly read the little piece of paper that came with the valve the light dawned! – “a field adjustable safety valve used to protect pressure containing components from exceeding a safe level of pressure”. The pressure is set with the thumbscrew on the top and was done by CCC. Not pretty but works!
Again, more than I ever wanted to know 🙂 Thank you one more time.
Pat,
Thank you! It’s good to know there are options out there!
Jim
I found a Kingston 125ss saftey valve that comes pre set at 20psi and is 1/8 npt. It looks like old original nationals and thanks for all the information you got post here!
Got a pristine MIRRO 22 qt canner, at an auction, but it did not include the jiggler/weight and I can’t find any online. Are there any vent tubes and weights that could be swapped out?
Greg,
It looks like Amazon has the Univen weight:
https://amzn.to/3qsjzot
(That’s an affiliate link, BTW.)
I know nothing about the Univen brand except to say it pops up frequently in searches for canner parts.
As for a swap, if it has the standard NPT threads, I don’t see why not. While I’m confident that neither the manufacturer nor I would recommend doing so, I have Presto weights on both my All American canners.
Speaking of All-American – their hockey puck weight is supposed to NOT be compatible with the Mirro.
Jim
It looks like the Mirro weight is in stock at https://www.pressurecooker-outlet.com/Mirro-Pressure-Cooker-Parts.htm
I was just skimming up the comments, and found a reference to another canner parts supply place, and they also have the Mirro weight in stock, and on sale. https://www.cookingandcanning.net/22quart1.html
We have a Burpee Aristocrat Cooker model AR1525 and would like to find a replacement seal. Do you have any suggestions? No other company manufacturer will discuss. Thanks.
Garee,
I think I can explain why no one will talk about it. It’s one of the reasons you hear people talk about exploding canners.
It’s been a while since I looked it up but as I recall, that tension band thing would fail.
So my only real suggestion is to never use it again, unfortunately.
Jim
I was given an old AA and ordered new petcock and weighted gauge. in trying to remove the petcock the threads broke off and my husband can’t figure out what size threads are on the new one so he can drill it out. Does anyone know what the thread size is on the new petcock ?
Janice,
It “should” be 1/8 NPT. My experience says that can be difficult to find in reasonably priced tap and die sets.
Jim
Can a presto canner be changed over to a weighted gauge?
Janice,
Almost certainly. What model Presto is it?
Jim
Hi.
I would like to ask for suggestions. I have a vintage Pressure Cooker that i wanted to restore which has a missing (rubber) overpressure plug and i plan to replace this with a more modern type of overpressure plug. The cover has only 2 vents as per pic and the other one uses the Air Valve pressure release. Can you give me suggestions on an alternative part that i can use for the overpressure plug? A product link would be helpful. Many Thanks!
Jay,
I’m not sure I understand what you are asking. If your lid has a place for a rubber overpressure plug, I am relatively certain that you can’t replace it with anything but a rubber overpressure plug of the same type.
Jim
I have a Maid of Honor Canner with an inaccurate original gauge. I did find and order a new one but am unable to remove the old. It will not budge at all. To by pass this, a weighted gauge would be great. Because of the trouble in changing the gauge I am afraid to even try the vent pipe to allow for a change out for the Presto 3 weight set.
Is there ANY other weighted gauge that will fit a Maid of Honor canner vent pipe? I don’t want to trash this beauty. Thank you
Anne,
I doubt that there is any substitution.
I’ve had the same problem with gauges and vent pipes being difficult to remove. One of my gauge removals actually removed some of the threads in the lid! It appeared that the stem of the gauge had somehow bonded to the aluminum of the lid. When I took the wrench to the gauge and it finally came loose, there was some aluminum from the lid stuck in the threads of the gauge and there was a section of threading in the lid that was simply smooth. I was able to neaten up the threads and the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap and die kit, and since NPT fittings are tapered, there was enough metal left to replace the gauge. I got lucky. I don’t know if you’d have the same experience, though.
Have you tried removing the vent pipe at all? You might get lucky and it comes out easily?
Jim
I have a Maid Of Honor Canner that has an inaccurate gauge. It’s off by 3 pounds. I tried to change it out with a new gauge but the old one not coming off. I would love to use a weighted gauge instead but the Presto 3 set will not fit. Because getting the old dial is so hard, I am not keen on doing the vent pipe for fear of the same problem. Is there a weighted gauge out there that will fit onto a Maid of Honor stem? Thank you.
(I may have cross posted, I can’t see my question here. sorry if I did!)
Anne,
You didn’t cross post – I’ve just not had the time to log in and moderate these comments! I’ve replied to your original comment and am posting the reply again under this one:
I doubt that there is any substitution.
I’ve had the same problem with gauges and vent pipes being difficult to remove. One of my gauge removals actually removed some of the threads in the lid! It appeared that the stem of the gauge had somehow bonded to the aluminum of the lid. When I took the wrench to the gauge and it finally came loose, there was some aluminum from the lid stuck in the threads of the gauge and there was a section of threading in the lid that was simply smooth. I was able to neaten up the threads and the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap and die kit, and since NPT fittings are tapered, there was enough metal left to replace the gauge. I got lucky. I don’t know if you’d have the same experience, though.
Have you tried removing the vent pipe at all? You might get lucky and it comes out easily?
Jim
Thank you so much for your time. I have not tried to do this, as it would be the last resort only. It seems it is. I will leave the guage and try the vent pipe. The gauge is slightly inaccurate so I need to do it. This old canner is in such great condition otherwise is derves a second chance. Here’s hoping….
Your expertise in this area is so helpful and much appreciated!
A follow up: thanks to you I have a weighted gauge and a safely working canner. The slightly inaccurate dial gauge did not come off, but the vent pipe was no problem. Replaced and fitted with the Presto 3 piece set. Amazing.
Anne,
That’s great news! The weight is better than the gauge any day!
Jim
Can a mirro pressure regulator (round disk style) be used on an “All American” brand pressure canner?
Bob,
My understanding is that a Mirro weight can only be used on a Mirro vent tube, and that an All-American weight can only be used on an All-American vent tube.
I don’t use those “hockey puck” disk weights, so I have no personal experience.
Jim