I found myself in a thrift store today and a vintage canner followed me home.
The Presto 21-B is an older model Presto pressure canner that is based on the old National design, before the National company became Presto. It is a 21 quart-by-volume canner as the model number suggests. It will hold a pretty standard 7 quart jars, but is tall enough to do two layers of pint jars (16 wide-mouth pints or 18 regular-mouth pints). You also download a copy of the 21-B Canner Manual.
The canner is in good physical shape, but cosmetically and operationally, it has several problems.
It’s dirty
It’s missing its weight (or “jiggler”)
The gauge is in dire need of replacement
The rubber seal and over-pressure plug are both dried out and shrinking
(Did I mention the grunge?)I’m putting a complete list of parts I might use at the end of this post.
The canner from the “back.” It has the normal aluminum pitting and wear you see on cast aluminum of this vintage, but you can also begin to see the dirt issues. Not all of it is dust!
See how the needle on the gauge isn’t resting on zero? This is an indication that the gauge has been damaged at some point in its life. Judging from past experience with another of these Presto 21-Bs, I feel confident in saying that this is the canner’s second gauge, at least. The original on my other 21-B is angled backward and has the Presto name on it. This gauge will be replaced with [easyazon-link asin=”B000GD55LA” locale=”us”]Presto part number 85771[/easyazon-link]. This is the Presto gauge that has fine machine-screw type threads on it. (They have at least one other model that has a nut on the bottom and coarser threads.)
The vent tube on which the missing weight sits. This is the [easyazon_link identifier=”B015ZNB9Y2″ locale=”US” tag=”cwj-20″]model 1058 vent tube[/easyazon_link]. I’ll be replacing the missing weight with Presto’s three-piece weight-set, [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]Part Number 50332[/easyazon-link]. See the grunge? The grunge must go away. I can handle a bit of grunge on my canner if it’s my grunge. This is someone else’s grunge! (Note the chamfered / beveled / angled top on this pipe? This is the correct 1058 vent pipe. Some sellers have sent me a straight-cut pipe that DOES NOT work with the 3 piece weight set.)
A close-up of the over-pressure plug and air vent. [easyazon-link asin=”B000OREUEQ” locale=”us”]Part Number 9911[/easyazon-link], this over-pressure plug can also be bought in a set with the seal. You can easily see the grunge and nastiness in this picture, but you can’t really tell that the plug is dried-out and has shrunk.
Here is a close-up of the bottom of the over-pressure plug. The plug is dry and stiff and should fill up that hole a bit more than it does.
The under-side of the canner lid. The round bit with the slot cut through it is the bottom of the vent tube. Notice the grunge right beside it? There is grunge INSIDE it as well! A definite hazard, the vent tube has to be cleaned out before use! Also notice how the black rubber seal is bulging out of its groove. The seal is noticeably stiff and dry and has shrunk with age. The grunge has to be removed from next to the seal, also, so that the lid properly seats onto the canner pot itself. [easyazon-link asin=”B00NE665T2″ locale=”us”]Presto Part number 9907[/easyazon-link] will give you both this seal, as well as the over-pressure plug.
More grunge around the rim of the canner that has to be removed. Notice the rust staining on the bottom of the canner. This comes from using that wire basket. The wire will rust. I’ll be replacing the basket with two 11 1/4” aluminum canner racks ([easyazon-link asin=”B000LNY6T2″ locale=”us”]Presto part number 85707[/easyazon-link], or [easyazon-link asin=”B00196L2E2″ locale=”us”]All-American part number 151[/easyazon-link].) The rust staining should go away with a bit of scrubbing with [easyazon-link keywords=”Bar Keeper’s Friend” locale=”us”]Bar Keeper’s Friend[/easyazon-link].
Grungy handles on both sides! That the handles are two colors also leads me to the conclusion that this canner has had some replacement parts in its lifetime. I’ll be removing the handles for cleaning, and if necessary, I’ll replace the screws with stainless versions from the local hardware store; I expect to find rusty screws! The handles for the lid are [easyazon-link asin=”B000HM5UVU” locale=”us”]Presto Part Number 85444[/easyazon-link], and for the canner bottom, [easyazon-link asin=”B000HM7XAG” locale=”us”]Part Number 85443[/easyazon-link].
This close-up of the front of the canner shows the open-closed positioning and has some interesting numbers. This canner has the numbers: 21 25 and 71, my other 21-B has the numbers: 21 26 and 67. I have seen references online to parts fitting Presto canners “made in 1971 or before,” so I’m going to assume the last two numbers are a year code. I believe it’s safe to assume the 21 refers to the model number and size of the canner. Anyone want to venture a guess as to the middle numbers?
Update: I’ve consulted the Canning2 Yahoo Group and it’s been suggested that the middle number could be a week of manufacture. I finally remembered that I had a 16 quart canner bottom sitting in the basement and have checked it. It has numbers of 16 51 and 67. I’m going to assume this means it was made just before Christmas 1967.
See my Presto dating page for more information.
Gauge | [easyazon-link asin=”B000GD55LA” locale=”us”]Part Number 85771[/easyazon-link] |
Vent Pipe | [easyazon_link identifier=”B015ZNB9Y2″ locale=”US” tag=”cwj-20″]Part Number 1058[/easyazon_link] |
Over-pressure Plug | [easyazon-link asin=”B000OREUEQ” locale=”us”]Part Number 9911[/easyazon-link] |
Gasket (with over-pressure plug) | [easyazon-link asin=”B00NE665T2″ locale=”us”]Part Number 9907[/easyazon-link] |
Canner Rack | [easyazon-link asin=”B000LNY6T2″ locale=”us”]Part Number 85707[/easyazon-link] |
Lid Handles | [easyazon-link asin=”B000HM5UVU” locale=”us”]Part Number 85444[/easyazon-link] |
Bottom Handles | [easyazon-link asin=”B000HM7XAG” locale=”us”]Part Number 85443[/easyazon-link] |
Three-piece Weight Set | [easyazon-link asin=”B000HMBVQ8″ locale=”us”]Part Number 50332[/easyazon-link] |
Thanks for this. My mother-in-law gave me her old Presto 21B canner and while many people recommend not using an old canner, I didn’t see any reason why I shouldn’t use one that was working fine before being stored for years. Your post gave me the information that I needed to restore it to working condition. Thanks!
I’m glad you got it working! I love both of my 21-Bs.
Jim
Jim, what do the 3 numbers represent? Mine is a 21 22 65
Chris,
I can say with confidence that the first number is the quart size of the canner bottom. 21 for 21 quarts. 16 for the 16 quart model. I’ve not seen a 12 in person to see.
With less confidence I believe the last number is a year.
I’m not at all certain about the middle number, but I’m guessing that it’s a week of manufacture. I have no way to confirm that, really. If there’s ever one higher than 52, I suppose that would disprove it.
The 16 quart that is currently sitting on the stove is a 16 51 67. It’s absolutely a 16 quart. Given it’s a family canner, the 67 makes sense as a date based on family history. I don’t know that the plants would have been working during the 51st week of year, though. It seems they’d be down for Christmas vacations.
Jim
Picked one of these up awhile back. Thanks for writing this. Helped me find parts I need quickly. Mine’s a 21 45 68. Lots of grunge!
Link to manual doesn’t work. I’d like the file if possible. Thanks.
I’ve just repaired the link. It should be working, but here’s the direct link:
http://cookingwithjim.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/presto-21-b-canner-manual.pdf
I’ve just checked it out by downloading it myself and it’s working!
Thanks for letting me know.
Jim
I have a 21B that I purchased at a garage sale years ago. I’m getting ready to purchase replacement parts for it. Can I use the 3 part jiggler with this model. I’m not patient enough to sit and watch the gauge.
So long as the vent pipe on yours looks like the 1058 vent pipe in my pictures (and it really should) you can use the 3 piece weight set. I have two of the 21-B canners and use 3-piece weight sets on both. I am much happier going to sit down in the La-Z-Boy and listening rather than sitting in a barstool and watching!
Jim
Hey Jim, I am in need of the canning rack which looks like a basket for my Presto model 21-B. It holds 7-quart jars when we are canning. Where can I get one? Please send to my e-mail. dgibson5129@yahoo.com
Thank you, Doug
Doug,
If you are set on the actual basket, you are going to have to go with finding one used somewhere. At time of writing, I don’t see any listed on eBay. There are various new racks available, but to my knowledge, the baskets are no longer made.
I use Presto’s flat aluminum canning rack in everything these days and two of them in the tall canners like the 21-B (when I double-stack pints). All the baskets that came with mine are rusted and collecting dust in the basement waiting for a trip to the salvage yard. I also never liked the lack-of-stability in the old wire baskets or the new wire racks.
It looks like Amazon is currently out of the flat Presto racks, and Mirro, and All-American. They have multiple stainless steel options as well as some wire racks. While I’ve thought about purchasing the flat stainless racks, I’ve used none of them, but you can view a search using this Amazon Link (affiliate link):
https://amzn.to/3fk0RWV
Jim
Thank you for all the help and the detailed information. I have had a couple of 21-B’s and love them. I have one that I got in the 70’s but lost the manual over the years so have been looking for replacement parts. Great Info… Sorry about all the grunge I clean and polish mine after every season of use… it looks great…
Maureen,
What do you use to polish yours?
Jim
Thanks for a great post. I just recieved my 21-b from my mom who recieved it from my great aunt. This is a special canner to me bc my grandma taught my mom how to can on it. I can’t see any stamping like yours has to indicate dates. Would really love to know what year mine was made. Any suggestions? My tag on top is identical to yours.
Josh,
I really do not have a lot of information. I have a picture of me with this one sitting on the kitchen floor in the late 1970’s or early 1980’s. I know that somewhere close to that time, my grandmother bought a newer stamped model.
Other than finding something stamped on them, I can’t even begin to guess.
Check the bottom of your canner. Some have reported finding information there as well as the rims.
Jim
Thanks for this! Did you have any trouble removing the original pressure gauge? Would you mind sharing how you did so? I’m having a hard time removing the current gauge.
Kassandra,
I can only suggest even gentle pressure with something like an adjustable wrench. This one had been replaced before and I think they cross-threaded it; it was very difficult to remove.
I’ve removed others that I could easily turn by hand.
Jim
Jim, thank you so much for the detailed information above! I have been trying to determine whether the 3-piece weight will work with the #1058 vent pipe and finally landed here and found my answer! I wasn’t sure if I needed a straight cut pipe instead of the beveled tip, or if the 1058 was even the right retrofit.
Like you, I was recently followed home from a thrift store by a vintage Guardian Service canner, which was clearly made by Presto. It has no model number but I would estimate it at 10 or 12 quarts (I think it takes sealing ring #1085). I own various pressure cookers, but this is my first canner. The gauge is accurate, but I’m used to hearing a weight rocking and don’t want to rely on the gauge, so I’ll be installing the new pipe and 3-piece regulator.
Thank you again. Now I can order these parts with confidence.
DJ,
Glad to be of help. Please come back with an update as to how it went.
As near as I can tell, Presto was making canners under several brand names.
Also note that there is at least a bit of controversy over the smaller pressure vessels. To really be a canner, the pot has to be large enough to hold at least 4 quart jars – otherwise your timing could be off and your canned food may not be canned properly. The second criteria is that the pot must be able to be held at 5, 10, or 15 pounds of pressure.
Jim
Hi Jim – How do you use 2 canning racks versus the original basket? We have a 21 36 71 that looks just like yours from a thriftstore that we are cleaning up …. Also, do you know of a way to test the gauge?
Becky
Becky,
You remove the basket. One rack always sits in the bottom of the canner. The second rack will simply lay on top of pint jars. The second layer of pint jars sits atop the second rack.
So far as I know, the only place to officially get a gauge tested is at your local County extension agent’s office. I have heard that people will take them to various machine shops, that I have no real ideas about that.
Jim
Thanks for what you have written here it is helpful. The number on my presto canner are 21 8 65. It is in great condition. I think it was hardly used. Do you think all the rubber parts should be replaced because of its age?
Elaine,
If any of the rubber is inflexible, or certainly if it shows any signs of cracking, they should be replaced. It’s also always a good idea to keep a spare set on hand in case you need them while you are in the middle of canning.
Also, don’t forget to make sure the gauge is accurate. Who knows if a previous owner banged it around or something!
Jim
Loved all of the information and comments posted. I was wondering if you have any data on this old 4qt canner I just acquired? I have a vintage Albert Sechrist pressure cooker canner that was used in the early 1920’s. Of course the guage is shot and I will need to replace petcock and air vent (I guess). All of the wing nut screw downs are in great shape as is the lid and kettle. I want to use this canner so much. Do you have any info or comments as to my course of repair action? Thank you and bless you for your help…Ruth/CANNAHOLIC…
Ruth,
I have no information specific to your pressure cooker. My experience tells me that most of the gauges/petcocks/vent tubes used the same threads, so new parts shouldn’t be a problem.
The problem is: “4 quart”. If you mean it is big enough to hold 4 quart jars, you are good. If you mean it holds 4 quarts of liquid, there’s a problem. To be a canner you need to have a pressure vessel that can hold at least 4 quart jars and can maintain pressures at 5, 10, and 15 pounds using a gauge or a dial.
The smaller pots have not been tested to determine proper times. A smaller pot can heat up and cool down more quickly than a full sized canner. These heating and cooling times are somehow included in the testing and the determination of times. So, with a small pressure pot, the canned goods may wind up under-processed and unsafe.
Judging by the pictures I see online when I look it up, it looks like a beast of a pressure pot, but I can’t tell if it’s actually large enough to be a canner.
It also appears to have a metal-to-metal seal, so I recommend getting a copy of an All-American manual and reading what they say about taking care of the seal. It should apply to other brands as well, I would think.
Jim
Thank you so much Jim for the suggestions. This little jewel is a real pressure canner and will hold 4 quart size canning jars easily. I will order the All-American manual asap. Thanks again…Ruth…
Ruth,
At one time WAFCO had the manual online, I think. If you have, or are going to go with a petcock valve, email them and ask them for the direction sheet they have for that, too.
I love my All-Americans, so I suspect you’ll love the Sechrist.
Jim
You are the best for some of us old time canners out here. I can hardly wait to order my parts. Thank you again Jim…Ruth…
Hi Jim, I am in my kitchen just getting ready to put my jars of green beans into my grandma’s National #7 pressure canner. This will be the first time it’s been used in about 15 years. I just noticed there are two bumps on the bottom of the pot. The “bump”‘s size is a circumference of a marble, depth of about 1/8 inch, both bumps have a small crack in the bumps. Both bumps are side by side. There is not a sign of them from the inside. Is this canner safe? Have you seen or heard of this with older canners?
Denise,
I’ve not heard of it before, but it doesn’t sound at all safe to me to have cracks in the pot.
Jim
Thanks so much for a quick response. My gut was telling me not to use it. I can’t imagine what caused that. Disappointing…
Thanks again!
Hi Jim , dont know if this forum is still going, but ill give this a try. I have this vintage guardián that a friend found me at a garage sale so I ordered the 9907 gasket and it appears to be about 2 inches too big. I replaced the pressure gauge and thst seems to fit fine…should I put some plummers tape? I contacted presto and they are really dumb, after sending several pics at their request they tell me they dont carry those parts. I bought the gauge through e bay and it fits..if I dont hear from you regarding the gasket I guess I will cut it and make it fit. Thanks for your wisdom on this. Thanks , maria
Maria,
Don’t cut the gasket. I’m confident it will never work if you do.
Is your Guardian a full-sized one that can hold 7 quart jars? If so, the 9907 is probably correct. If it only holds 4 quart jars, you probably have the wrong seal.
Does the lid look like the lid to my 21-B in this posting?
It’s not unusual to struggle with getting those flat seals into the lids. There are times you have to spend 15+ minutes going round and round the lid, forcing the seal into the groove.
You can try this posting and video to see if it helps:
http://cookingwithjim.com/how-to-install-the-seal-on-a-presto-21-b-pressure-canner/
Jim
I have a one owner (me) Presto 21B. My daughter is now canning so I am going to be using it again after 40 years.
I am replacing the sealing ring and the automatic air vent just to because it seems like a good idea.
I now have a flat top stove and the bottom to my pressure cooker looks flat not concave, so that is supposed to be okay. The manual for the pressure canner doesn’t say.
My other option for heat is a propane burner that turns down to a very low heat.
Any input regarding the heat source for this particular canner would be appreciated.
Thank you.
There are some issues with glass-top stoves.
Is it rated for a canner? Check your manual. Some are. Some aren’t.
Depending on how ofter yours cycles on and off – it may not keep the pressure constant. If the pressure drops below where it’s supposed to be, you have to start timing again. This can be slightly mitigated by the three-piece weight set – the stove could be kept a little higher without the pressure going too high.
Probably the most important one: how large is your largest burner? My understanding is that if pots on glass stoves are larger than the burner too much heat can be trapped in the wrong places and crack the glass. That’s my understanding, but I don’t have a glass top stove. The newer Prestos have an area on the bottom that protrudes that is the size of a standard 8″ burner.
Regarding the propane burner: the official answer, I think, is still: no. I know people do it all the time, but I’m won’t recommend it. My understanding is that the big 30,000 btu turkey fryer burners can cause damage to the canner. Commercial ranges frequently have 30,000 btu burners and some residential ranges approach that these days – so I don’t understand the warning. But, my belief is the official answer is still: no.
Jim
After reading your reply I decided to call presto. They are absolutely adamant that I cannot use this pressure cooker on a glass top stove as it is much too heavy.
They were also emphatic that presto canners cannot be used on a larger burners, 10″ 11″ etc as it will warp the bottom.
Their customer service also advised against any propane or outdoor heat source of any kind. This was for user safety.
So, my alternative is to buy a stove that is not glass top or buy a new pressure canner.
My pressure canner is in excellent condition and it’s to face the fact it is no longer usable for me.
Thank you for your reply. I thought others may be interested in what presto said also.
I think I’d check with the stove manufacturer as well. They’d certainly know more about what their particular stove can handle than would Presto.
I know that certain models of glass top stoves are rated for canning by their manufacturer. And what do they say about the cook who drags out a 22 quart stock pot to make soup? That’s going to be as heavy – or likely heavier – than a canner, I’m certain.
There are camp stoves that are 15-18,000 btus and that is in the same range as many residential gas stoves. Maybe part of their concern is that camp stoves may not be stable and someone winds up spilling a canner full of water on themselves. Considering how many people use a heavy cast iron dutch oven on camp stoves . . . This one has never made sense to me. Cracking a glass-top stove, I understand.
Check out the new Presto 23 Quart Canner if you decide to go with a new one. They will allow you to double-stack pints and are designed with a glass-top stove in mind. I’m not 100% certain about any Mirro Canner fitting these requirements. I’m confident that the All-Americans would be in the same category as the 21-B – heavy cast aluminum with a large bottom.
Jim
Jim, I have a question about this really old Seachrist pressure cooker/canner. I would like to use it and want to order new parts. This thing is built like a tank. I would like to send pictures and wonder could you suggest a replacement part for this steam valve ( that still seems to work well). This unit will hold 4 quart jars easily.
Thank you so much…Ruth Amy
By the way, how can I send you a picture of my canner? Thanks, Ruth/cannaholic…
What great info. I just got this canner in good condition and need to replace everything for my own piece of mind. What a great place for me to find today. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Tomorrow I will be trying to replace the gauge.. wish me luck!
Thank you and good luck!
Jim
Hi I have a 21 B Presto pressure canner wurh a stuck lid… how di I get it to open. The lid is closed as per normal. Arrow pointing aboce the closed mark. I cannot turn ut antilock wise.. what is wrong
Giel,
First make sure it’s cool and depressurized.
The lugs on the lid and canner body are meant to be occasionally lubricated and will stick if they aren’t. Sometimes the seal can also cause problems with sticking.
Try pushing down on the lid while turning it. The downward pressure should compress the seal if that’s the problem. And, if the lugs are stuck, it could release them as well. Possibly sitting the canner on the floor and bearing down with all your weight from above would be the best bet.
You can try some gentle taps on the handles with a rubber mallet, but it’s likely you will wind up breaking the handles.
If it has water in it, you may try warming it up. That might soften the seal enough for it to turn.
Hopefully, one of these will help!
Jim
is it confirmed that the third set of numbers on the lid are the manufacture year?
Josh,
I have no confirmation, but it still seems to make sense.
Jim
Had a 21-B (16-74) follow me home today. Shiny and clean, almost like new, but it had been used a few times.
It appears to have the original seal, an opaque white thing, and the air vent looks a bit shrunken. Replacements for those are on the way, so will give it a whirl later this week.
I love my Mirro 4 & 6, but sometimes you need “more”. I’m planning on using this for cooking more than canning, but at least the canning option is available.
That said, I remember my mother’s mother using the Mirro 6 to can and I was right there in the middle of everything… She died of natural causes, by the way, and I’m writing this; I’m evidently a little more cautious with my own mortality 40 some years down the road.
Thanks for the info!
To clean the grunge would oxy clean be okay? I just got a 8 21 56. Great shape and overall clean just a bit of build up around the lid.
Liz,
I’m not sure I’d chance anything oxy on the aluminum. I’ve used Barkeeper’s friend on aluminum before, without issue – but I don’t know about the OxiClean. I’d be afraid bad things might happen.
Jim
So I stop by a yard sale today and spot a pressure canner. I check it out and it’s missing parts. So I asked the gramma if she had the missing parts. No, she had lent it out and that’s how it was returned. I give her 5 bucks for it and she gives me the story. Her husband and her had 6 acres, 1 acre vegetable garden and pigs on some of the rest. She’d can all summer and work. At the 2 year mark her husband would feed those vegetables to the pigs. She told me I was taking an old friend home. I replied that I guaranteed that it was a good home to go to. So now I’m home researching and found your article. Guess what it’s a 21-b. The only thing is mine doesn’t have the date number on it. No numbers on the lid at all except on the metal tag. The very bottom is marked National Presto 21B 06. Any knowledge you can, no pun intended, share. 😎Thanks, Sherry
Sherry,
The only knowledge I can share is what’s already posted on this page.
Jim
I was in college in 1973 and had a garden by 74. I bought my 21-B in the fall of 74. On the bottom is stamped MOD 21-B 4473. It makes sense that it was made in the 44th week of 1973.
Jim. This is a terrific article. My 21-B has been around the world with me in the Army for 21 years then stored in my garage. I’m getting back into canning this fall and will replace the seal, blow out plug, and gauge. Your pictures and comments are invaluable.
Terry,
Thank you for your kind words.
I’m glad that it’s helpful; that was the goal!
Jim
I want to know what year my 18 qt National Canner is and if I can get replacement parts? I assume its a 18 qt it is stamped 18 below National
Beverly,
I wouldn’t be able to hazard any real guess as to age, but I’d bet parts are available online.
Jim
This is a lot of great information. I have two National #7’s and a Steamliner. All three are 16 quart and have interchangeable lids. Can these be converted to weighted jigglers so i can more easily teach my sons to can their harvest?
Cindy,
My guess is yes, since they appear to be essentially the same as the 21B, but I’ve not worked with them – so, the standard disclaimers apply. I’m not responsible, etc. Please don’t blow up a canner or a house!
Jim
Hi Jim,
What an informative article.
I am based in the UK, and have been looking for a pressure canner for some time now, but to no avail.
Apart from Amazon and eBay, shipped from the USA, there are no stockists what so ever over here for any pressure canner.
Whilst I love the idea of recycling and the looks of the older canners, to pay £70 shipping on something that may not work, and parts may not be available, I cannot justify.
Your article has just enabled me to widen my search criteria.
Many thanks indeed.
Steve
Steve,
I’m glad I could be of help.
Let us know what you finally decide upon!
Jim
So I have an old National #7 recently acquired on line. Everything looked good on first glance so I put some water in it and heated it up for a test run. Pressurized up to 15# without incident, even the gauge seemed to work well. So I shut it off and went away, and came back to a cold cooker with a stuck lid. Banged on it till one handle broke…no luck. Did some research on line….reheated the cooker with valve open….no go. Let it cool again and poured boiling water all over the lid…no go. Finally took an old syringe and put vegetable oil in it and injected this all along the rim, and left the thing sitting upside down (thinking this would oil the gasket)…nope. Heated the whole cooker quite hot in my solar oven…probably to boiling or above…nope.
When I look in the crack where the lid meets the pot, right near the “open” and “close” marks, I can see a little pin which seems to be preventing the lid from swiveling off the pot. Inserting a feeler gauge won’t budge it. neither will liberal oiling and tapping. I don’t know why this pin is there, and all I can research about it tells me that it is supposed to jam against the gasket when the pot is pressurized and then drop back down as it cools. But it’s obviously stuck. I think I might be able to get to it with my narrowest hacksaw blade….I wonder if there is any other idea out there, and if the cooker will be usable if I cut off the pin?
Alder,
The pin is meant to be there. I believe it is the stop so that the lid doesn’t get tightened too far.
If you are turning the lid so that it is pressing against the pin – turn it the other way. The lid turns to the right, away from the pin to open. Left toward the pin to close. Press down on the lid from above to attempt to compress the gasket and turn the lid while pressing down. This may be easier to da when warm.
I hope that the solar oven didn’t melt the gasket and glue the lid to the bottom!
I have a canner bottom that has no lid. That lid got stuck on that canner when I was a child. I remember that we busted a handle trying to get it apart. I don’t remember whatever happened to the lid!
The handle is replaceable if you get it apart.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I have a National Presto Cooker-Canner #4, it is marked 8 imperial Qts. Wallaceburge Ont. It has no numbers anywhere on the rim or bottom. I cannot find a listing for a gasket or pressure relief plug. I have had a custom made gasket, but that now needs replacing and I also need a pressure relief plug. Is there a cross reference to a similar USA made cooker-canner? Do you know whether a plug for a different model will fit/work? I could get another custom gasket made.
Thanks for your time.
P.S. I also recently squired a 21B 21 45 68, it is getting a new pres. reg. & gasket, plus polishing, first with a green plastic scrubber, then 1500 wet & dry sandpaper, then 6″ buffing wheel & compound on electric polisher.
john
John,
I can’t find a listing for a National #4.
How many quart jars does it hold? Is the lid a smaller version of your 21-B?
Would you mind sharing some before and after photos of your 21-B?
Jim
Hello Jim,
If I use the weights, do I need to replace the old gauge?
Thank you,
Laura
Laura,
People in various forums do this all the time. I don’t, simply because I want a working gauge. I like the visual representation of pressure.
I suppose, if there were physical damage to the old gauge there could be a safety issue, perhaps.
Jim
Thank you. Safety first it is.
Hi Jim I will soon be the owner of a Presto 21 – B and have the parts list and numbers for refurbishing this canned. How do I contact Presto to get the parts coming?? ~Ed~
Ed,
I don’t buy directly from Presto…I have bought everything from Amazon.
I believe their site is gopresto.com.
Jim
Hi Jim,
You mentioned that the handle screws were rusted. The screw in my pressure cooker handle is frozen solid yet the handle wiggles and can’t be tightened. Very small space to work and I don’t want to strip it out. Can you tell me how to remove the screw without breaking/damaging the handle?
Much appreciated!
Lyn
Lyn,
I really don’t. I have a 14-21 that has wooden handles. I’d like to take them off and paint them. The screws have been in there for 60+ years and they won’t budge. I even tried my impact driver but am afraid I’ll damage them or the canner.
The handles are still available for the 21-B if you did break one. But, then it wouldn’t be original.
Wish I could be more help!
Jim
I have a Mirro 92122A 22qt that came with 3 individual weights 5,10 and 15lb.. When using this canner the weight gauge does not gently rattle like the new Prestos, it blast out steam about 3-4 times a minute when you have the heat set right.. I would think this would cause the pressure inside to constantly go up and down which is a little concerning. I’ve always hated this setup. I was wandering if I could replace the Mirro vent and weighted gauge with a new Presto vent pipe and weighted gauge like I have on my Presto 16qt. 01745? If I can get the new Presto vent fitted to the Mirro it should work wouldn’t you think?
Randy,
I don’t have any real experience with Mirro canners, so I did a quick Googling … You are on your own on this one.
I looked up parts for your model and the vent tube is completely different – including different threads – than anything I’m used to. The only advice I can give is to be careful and don’t blow apart your kitchen!
I’m sorry I can’t be of more help, but I’m just not familiar enough with that canner to even make a guess.
Jim
I have an American Pressure Cooker Co. Model 7-A and am searching for parts that will interchange. I have learned much in my searches and know that APC Co. became Presto in 1939. I have contacted Presto for parts information and all they will tell you is that ” That model has been discontinued and parts are not available ” I realize that for legal reasons, they cannot tell you that parts from an updated canner will fit a discontinued one, but I also know that if the thread pattern is the same, then a pressure gauge for one will work on another and the same goes for pressure relief valves and gaskets. I have read bits and pieces of info that indicates the parts from the Presto 21-B will fit the American # 7. Does anyone know this to be true? What is the difference between the American # 7 and the 7-A. The 7-A was called the Co op model according to Presto old model sources.
Thanks for any help.
If it’s a dome-lid like the 21-B, I would guess that the parts would be compatible, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of them. So I will be like Presto and offer no advice! 😉
Perhaps you could share a picture of it?
Jim
I have an All American that I just upgraded to a pressure weight from the petcock.
I also have a Presto 21b with the 1058 vent tube. The provided link goes to an Amazon listing for a 50332 3-piece weight which I ordered. But the hole is slightly to small to fit the vent tube.
It appears that both brands use a standard 1/8″ pipe thread. Why not install the more clever All American tube and 3 position weight on the Presto? This is not interchanging the parts assembly.
Thank you, Eric
Eric,
It sounds like your three piece weight set isn’t quite right. I’d contact Amazon and Presto and see what solutions they might offer.
As for me, I prefer the Presto parts rather than the hockey puck Mirros on All-Americans (not interchangeable). Though to be fair, I’ve not used the hockey puck versions – we had Presto equipment anyway, so when I started adding to it, I kept it all the same for the sake of interchangeability.
Jim
Hello Jim, would be greatful for any advice regarding my recent free gift if a very old Presto 21. The number near the closed /open is simply 48 with three tiny circles before and after(similar to a degree) CLOSED°°°48 °°°OPEN. It has wooden handles and appears to be in great working order, apart from the emergency pressure gasket which is simply flat (it does not fit both under and above top of lid). And I am not familiar with the type of rocker it has. I have tried to find a manual to find info regarding operation of the rocker, but have had no luck. Can you explain to me how to properly use this rocker which I imagine is original?
Jacki,
Is it by chance one that has a knob on top for adjustment? And the vent tube it sits over is around 3/8″ wide and has a notch on top?
If so – I have no idea whatsoever. I’ve replaced all of those I had with the 1058 vent tube and 3-piece weightset.
I’m not sure that’s much help, though.
Jim
Ugh, so My 21 B is fantastic, worked fine most of the summer, then lid started sticking. I would cool it down cold, and still impossible, well I broke the handles banging on them with a spoon! so frustrating. Why is it sticking so much? Do I need to replace the seal? It works fantastic, but maybe that is the issue?
Thanks for any help or advice:)
Sheila,
It’s interesting that you broke the handles because the lid stuck . . . my first memory of a canner was trying to help my grandmother get a stuck lid off of a canner … and breaking the handles!
Get some Vaseline and a small brush. Brush a bit of Vaseline onto the mating surfaces of the lugs on the lid and bottom – making sure to keep it away from the seal. I believe I saw this is a Presto manual somewhere. WAFCO suggests Vaseline for their metal-to-metal seal on their All-American canners.
Something that I do that may only be helpful in my mind, is that before I put the lid on the canner, I run the area of the seal under a small stream of water. Some seals / canners are just tight. The water helps with getting the lid on more easily. Don’t know that it helps with the removal, really.
A new seal isn’t going to hurt and it’s always good to have a spare on hand anyway.
The new handles should fit without problems. I had a lid that had wooden handles that were in bad shape. I replaced them with the new plastic / bakelite / whatever handles with no problem.
Jim